Free Patterns
Loose Ends Mitered Mittens
About 200 yds worsted weight yarn
At least 6 inches of contrasting scrap yarn
Set of 5 double pointed needles
(I do not specify what needle size to use because this will vary with the knitter, start your swatch with size 2 sizes smaller then the yarn label suggests, because you want a nice tight knit for mittens)
Gauge: 4-5 stitches per inch
Cast on 48 stitches, divide onto 4 needles (12 stitches each). Join, being careful not to twist.
ROUND 1
1st needle- K1, M1, knit to last two stitches on the 1st needle, K2 tog.
2nd needle- SSK, knit to last stitch, M1, Knit last stitch
3rd needle- K1, M1, knit to last two stitches on the 3rd needle, K2 tog. (Same as 1st needle)
4th needle- SSK, knit to last stitch, M1, Knit last stitch (same as 2nd needle)
ROUND2
Knit around
Repeat these two rounds until you have about ? inches knit, measuring point to point.
Provision for Thumb
Continue in established pattern, but at beginning of round 2, Knit 2 stitches, then with contrasting scrap yarn, knit 6. Slip those 6 stitches from right needle back onto left needle. Knit those stitches again with main yarn, continue on round 2. (Done. Forget it, for now)
Now keeping in pattern, knit until mitten measures ? , measuring point to point.
Top shaping
Keeping the pattern the same in decreases, eliminate the increases (the M1s)
Continue until 8 stitches remain, Kitchener together or use a 3 needle bind off.
Thumb
Pick out the contrasting bit of yarn to expose 11 live stitches, picking up and extra stitch at each end of thumb hole,(pick up the extra stitch to avoid a hole, twisting that stitch helps.) arrange stitches on 3 or 4 needles, work even to desired length of thumb. Next round, K 2 tog around. Cut yarn and thread though remaining stitches, pull tight.
Weave in ends.
Make another mitten, placing thumb on other side. (Thumb placement on the second mitten will be easy after you have the first mitten finished)
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- worn as gaiter or neckwarmer
Cowl, headband, ear warmer and neck warmer all in one
Designed by Mary Kay Vogel
This versatile fashion accessory is handy as an ear-warmer or headband, and stylish as a cowl or neck-warmer. It is easy to keep track of when stored around the neck, but it is small enough to stuff into your pocket. This is a free pattern in the true sense: use it however you would like, sell so many you get rich, pass the pattern around for everyone else to use however they would like. Enjoy!
Finished size is 6” at the widest and 22” around lightly stretched.
Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
Inc – increase – lift the bar between the sts from the row below and k or p it
Dec – decrease – k or p 2 sts together
St/sts – stitch/stitches
Moss st – purl the knits and knit the purls
S1pw – slip one st as if to purl, with the yarn in front
( ) – sts to repeat
Gauge: 11 sts and 17 rows = 4” square in moss stitch
Materials: Alpaca with a Twist BIG BABY, 100% Baby Alpaca, 3.5 oz (100 g) – 82 yards – one skien
Size US 11 needles, straights or circular used back and forth
Tapestry needle to weave in two ends
Smile
Cast on 11 sts.
S1pw, (K1,P1) 5 times. Repeat once.
Start increasing on start of each RS row 6 times, keeping in moss st pattern as follows:
RS - s1pw, p into bar below, (k1, p1) to end .
WS – s1pw, (k1, p1) to end.
RS – s1pw, k into bar below, (p1, k1) to end.
WS – s1pw, (k1, p1) to end.
Repeat these 4 rows two more times – 17 sts.
Work even – s1pw, (k1, p1) to end for 17”.
Start decreasing at start of RS row 6 times, keeping in moss st pattern as follows:
RS -s1pw, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to end.
WS – s1pw, (k1,p1) to end.
RS – s1pw, k2tog, (p1, k1) to end.
WS – s1pw, (k1,p1) to end.
Repeat these four rows two more times – 11 sts.
*S1pw, (k1, p1) to end.
Repeat * row once or until piece is long enough to fit head comfortably.
Bind off.
Weave in ends.
Gauge: the pattern works out best at a gauge of 7 ½ st/inch. I usually use size 1 needles.
Size: to fit an 8″ ankle.
Cuff: Cast on 60 stitches and knit in K1, P1 rib for 1 ½ - 2″.
Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch ( knit every round) and continue on 60 st. until desired length.
Dutch Heel: Leaving the 30 instep stitches on needles, work heel flap back and forth over remaining 30 sts in heel stitch of your choice.
Regular heel stitch :Row 1 sl 1, * k1, sl 1* repeat from * across ending with k1
Row 2 sl 1, purl across
Work even in heel stitch until heel flap is about 2.25″ long.
Turn Heel: Working in short rows over heel flap stitches:
Row 1 - sl 1, k19, ssk, Turn
Row 2 - sl 1, p10, p2tog, Turn
Row 3 - sl 1, k 10, ssk, Turn
Ending with row 2, repeat rows 2 & 3 until all stitches are used and there are 12 st on the needle.
Gusset: Knit first 6 stitches. Rounds now start in middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 6stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up 1 stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3 ) continuing in leg pattern. Pick up and knit 1 stitch where instep and heel flap join and 1 stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 6 stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Working instep stitches in leg pattern, and foot stitches in stockinette, knit 1 row.
* Next row - Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2& 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds even. Repeat from * until there are 15 st on each needle. 60 st. total
Foot: Continue working in pattern on 60 st. until desired foot length.
Toe: Dec. row - needle 1 - work to last 3 st. k2tog, k1
needle 2 - k1, ssk, knit to end
needle 3 -work to last 3 st. k2tog, k1
needle 4 -k1, ssk, knit to end
work 3 rounds even, (work dec. row, work 2 rows even) twice,
(work dec. row, work 1 row even)3 times. Work dec. row each round until 8 st. remain on needles. Graft stitches together to close toe.
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